When exploring the old canals of Amsterdam, a short walk from the tourist centre, you get a sense of history and tranquillity in equal measure.
Yet just a few miles away, the latter has been conspicuous by its absence at the Johan Cruyff Arena, home of one of Europe’s great old clubs, Ajax.
Following their worst domestic season in almost a quarter of a century in 23/24 – a campaign encompassing managerial and sporting director sackings, fan riots at matches, high player turnover and an aggregate 10-0 loss to the auld enemy Feyenoord – the team under new Italian coach Francesco Farioli unexpectedly found itself in a title race.
A pragmatic approach under the 36-year-old that was the antithesis of the ‘Total Football’ Cruyffian style demanded by fans and ex-players saw Ajax standing on the brink of an unlikely 37th Eredivisie title.
With six games left, they still had a 9-point cushion at the top over defending Champions PSV Eindhoven, an impressive feat in itself considering PSV had led by the same margin in December.
Having hit the front in mid-February, Ajax looked like they were in cruise control.
It was stodgy and tough to watch, but ultimately effective – they took 19 points from 21 in this period, including a comprehensive win in Eindhoven.
However, by the final day, the lead had gone. With the finishing line in sight, the wheels totally fell off.
The engine of Dutch football’s most successful club spluttered and stalled.
Over the course of four matches in what should have been a relatively gentle run-in 10 points were dropped, only 3 goals scored, and 10 conceded.
By the final round of fixtures, the destiny that Ajax had held firmly in its hands had been let slip.
The advantage was not just handed to PSV but gift-wrapped with a ribbon and delivered first-class.
The Ajax yips
The joy opposition fans have when mocking a side for ‘bottling it’ often comes with the acceptance that it’s unlikely to come to fruition.
Yet with each stumble from Ajax on their final lap towards the title, those hoping for a fall became increasingly convinced that it could happen.
The post-match clip of PSV fans at Philips Stadion, upon realising that 10-man Groningen had scored the 99th-minute equaliser to send PSV one point clear with a game to go, crystallised the moment when simple hope was instantly transformed into pure joy and incredulity.
It’s no wonder fans of the ‘Rood-witten’ were shocked.
There were several moments when the trophy could have been placed into the hands of Ajax Captain Jordan Henderson, who is ranked at No.20 in FourFourTwo’s list of the best Premier League midfielders of all time.
On matchday 36 out of 38, with Ajax still four points clear, the footballing Gods conspired to create a situation in which an in-form Feyenoord, led by Robin van Persie, could give Ajax matchpoint if they were to beat PSV in Rotterdam.
A 2-0 half-time lead had the champagne on ice in Amsterdam.
Then Noah Lang capped off an astonishing comeback with a 99th-minute winner (that number again), and the momentum and belief seemed to visually evaporate from Ajax players and fans alike.
Hours later, a shocking home performance to lose 0-3 to NEC Nijmegen had the gap down to just one. It was the first time NEC had ever won at Ajax.
The trophy was ready to be presented three days later in Groningen, should Ajax win and PSV falter.
Cue the aforementioned collapse that left Wout Weghorst running from the pitch in tears at full-time.
Even on the final day, the glory was cruelly dangled tantalising out of reach.
In another twist of footballing fate, Maurice Steijn, the man unceremoniously booted out of Ajax in October 2023, had a chance to save his old employers.
On 52 minutes, his Sparta Rotterdam equalised, and with Ajax leading Twente, the title was heading to Amsterdam again.
Yet within minutes, like a bully in the playground stealing someone’s lunch money, Luuk de Jong netted his 57th League goal since returning in 2022, and the hope was well and truly extinguished.
The back-to-back PSV titles had been secured.
The right side won in the end
In the context of Farioli’s mere three previous seasons as a Coach, the recent club mismanagement and the squad depth, Champions League qualification was the realistic target.
In that sense, it was mission accomplished.
In 23/24, Ajax finished an embarrassing 35 points behind PSV, so to be fighting for the title at all was impressive, especially as they played five more games due to European competition.
As was overcoming Peter Bosz’s side in both of their fixtures.
Nevertheless, it will take a while to nurse the wounds of a capitulation to a PSV side that were ruthless and impressive when it counted, winning all of their last seven matches.
That run started after the second loss to Ajax.
Mentality matters. And with the majority of the PSV side having fresh memories of securing the title, plus the added nous of old-timers like Ivan Perišić and De Jong, the greater comparative experience to a relatively young Ajax group showed as the pressure mounted.
As did the far superior attacking output and options available to Bosz.
By season-end, PSV had broken the 100 goals barrier whilst Ajax were way back on 67.
Mentality matters. And with the majority of the PSV side having fresh memories of securing the title, plus the added nous of old-timers like Ivan Perišić and De Jong, the greater comparative experience to a relatively young Ajax group showed
The former had six players hitting double figures in the league, the latter only one with Weghorst reaching 10 (eight of Oliver Edvardsen’s goals came for Go Ahead Eagles before he joined in January).
The first-choice striker Brian Brobbey reached the almighty total of four, fewer than the top scorers of the relegated Almere City and RKC Waalwijk.
The pre-season decision to clean up previous Technical Director Sven Mislintat’s supposedly dirty attacking laundry perhaps proved to be a mistake, with George Mikautadze having a superb season and well-fitted for Farioli’s style of play.
Ditto Steven Bergwijn, albeit in the Saudi Pro League.
Small moments of drama can swing and decide a title race.
Yet rarely do so many occur in such a short space of time.
At moments over the course of the final few weeks, it felt like a binge-worthy TV show with so many cliff-hangers that you needed to pause it just to catch your breath.
And in a season in which we failed to get tense title races in the Premier League, League 1, the Bundesliga and La Liga, the Eredivisie delivered the theatre and narrative that has been sparse across much of European football.
Indeed, it has been lacking in the Netherlands itself, with this the first time in eight years that the race had gone to the final match.
The resignation of Farioli, a day after his own tears on the pitch once 2nd place was confirmed, was a fitting finale to a captivating story full of twists and turns.
Perhaps it was the fact that Ajax and PSV each had almost as many flaws as they did strengths that meant it was such a roller-coaster of a ride.
As fans, it shows us that a memorable title race isn’t always about the number of points or even the quality.
What keeps us gripped to the edges of our seats is often just as much about the unpredictability and the deficiencies.
The sudden swings of the proverbial pendulum.
In an age of strict systems and predictable styles, of the watering down of individual flair at the altar of wider structure, it was refreshing to have a battle that was just pure chaos.
You may not follow the Eredivisie. You might even look down on it.
Yet this season certainly served up the kind of emotion and escapism that football is ultimately all about.
